Not many of us have the opportunity to forage for fresh mushrooms. Fortunately for us novices and city dwellers, the farmers' markets have an array of fresh mushrooms. Look out for stall operators who are 'genuine farmers' (don't get me started about this) and get a supply of fresh, interesting mushrooms. It's worth it. This recipe is ALL about the quality of the mushroom, the rice, and the stock. It's pretty simple - and like all pretty simple recipes, you need the best ingredients you can find.
Ingredients
- 1½ cups Carnaroli Rice – see note
- 1 small onion or 2 shallots, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 400–500g mixed wild mushrooms (like Swiss brown, porcini, oyster, pine, shiitake, enoki)
- 4–5 cups warm vegetable or chicken stock
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 2 tbsp olive oil + 1 tbsp butter (or use all butter for more richness)
- 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves (or ½ tsp dried)
- 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
- Salt & black pepper to taste (truffle salt if you have it)
- Extra butter or truffle oil (optional, for finishing)
- Extra thyme sprigs
- Shaved Truffle Pecorino (Cacio de Bosca)
- A drizzle of truffle oil or extra virgin olive oil
- Toasted pine nuts or crushed walnuts for texture
Method
Clean mushrooms gently with a damp cloth. Slice larger ones; leave any small mushrooms whole.
Gently heat a wide pan, toast off some pinenuts or walnuts until lightly golden and set aside. Turn up the heat and add 1 tablespoon of butter and 1 tablespoon of olive oil, then add mushrooms, thyme, and a pinch of salt. Sauté over medium-high heat until golden and tender (5–8 minutes). Set aside a few mushrooms for garnish and place the remaining mushrooms in a bowl.
In the pan you used to sauté the mushrooms add the stock to warm through – the stock will take up more of the mushroom flavour. Keep on a low heat.
Heat 1 tbsp olive oil and 1 tbsp butter in a large, heavy saucepan (cast iron is ideal) or Dutch oven. Add onion/shallot and cook over medium heat until soft, 3–5 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more.
Add carnaroli rice and stir to coat in the oil and butter. Toast for 1–2 minutes until the grains are slightly translucent at the edges.
Pour in the white wine and stir (and now it’s time for a glass for the cook) until the wine is mostly absorbed into the rice, not you.
Add 1 ladle of warm stock at a time, stirring constantly – this is why you have a glass of wine. Wait until most of the liquid is absorbed before adding more. This takes about 20–25 minutes. You want the rice al dente and creamy.
Stir in sautéed mushrooms (except any you're saving for garnish) in the last 5 minutes of cooking.
When the rice is creamy and cooked to your liking, stir in parmesan and a knob of butter (or a splash of cream for extra indulgence). Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Plate up, garnish with reserved mushrooms, fresh thyme, truffle pecorino, and/or a touch of truffle oil if you're feelin’ fancy.
Notes:
Carnaroli is the premium rice for risotto. It’s like the gold standard – you know the first cousin that is immaculately groomed AT THE TIME. It has a creamy texture, but the grains stay firmer and less likely to overcook. That makes it more forgiving if you’re not constantly stirring or time is a little off. It also has a higher amylose starch content, which gives it a luxe, velvety texture while keeping its shape. It is excellent at soaking up broth and hence flavour. Our carnaroli is also silo aged for a year so it has developed a wonderful flavour. You will taste the difference.
Risotto is a WET dish. When you tilt a bowl of risotto, it should slowly spread out — it won’t run like a soup but will not stay stiff like a mound of sticky rice. Italians say it should be “all’onda” (like a wave), meaning it flows gently but holds together. If your risotto is too stiff, simply add more stock. If you are intending to eat it the next day as anything other than arancini, set aside some stock to add once reheated.